Not the most expressive but nonetheless a very popular White Burgundy is the Bourgogne “Les Sétilles” from Olivier Leflaive. This is probably due to the wine being very rounded, smooth and easy drinking. Last night I tried the new Vintage, the 2010. It is more flamboyant and at this early stage, I feel not as good as the 2009 Vintage. The 2010 is closer to the Mark Haisma and Jean-Marie Fourrier and even Bret Brothers that we already have so I don’t see the need to automatically adopt this new Vintage. What that means however is we are down to our last 3-4 cases of the Bourgogne “Les Sétilles” 2009. Those of you who are fans of this, I would strongly recommend snapping this up now whilst the last few bottles remain.
Burgundy 2010 again and again and again…
Now that my teeth have taken a real hammering this last week over the early samples of Burgundy 2010, I have to reiterate that I am really enamoured with the Reds. The Whites are good too but there is already established competition from 2004-2005-2006-2007-2008, so I don’t sense the same urgency. I also don’t feel the Whites are actually as interesting however good they at times are. Chablis is terrific in 2010 but in all honesty how many of you have bought Chablis En Primeur? The Reds to me are the epitome and true essence of Burgundy and the Pinot Noir grape. Delicate, brittle, expressive, backward, retiscent, characterful, simply exuding feminine charm. Plentiful or sufficient fruit but wonderfully cool on the finish and little or no hint of excessive heat and sometimes the sweetness of some other recent Red Burgundy Vintages. The Grand Crus will be in demand (perhaps even more than 2009!) but I think the Village level, straight Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée etc., (£ 250-400 per case) will show the best value for money whilst highlighting the notion of terroir. Next week I will send out my recommendations to regular Burgundy buyers and to regular En Primeur buyers (especially of a Bordeaux bent!), so anybody else not on this list but intrigued or interested, please let me know.
Weekly indulgence:
These beautiful slender Magnums, standing 19” tall, look more like a work of art! And the contents from J.J.Prüm are pretty impressive too.
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling 2008 Joh. Jos. Prüm, Mosel at £ 42.00 per Magnum
Silly Season
Many films to see yet I went to see perhaps the weakest of the pick, “The Iron Lady”. Meryl Streep is brilliantly suited to this role and fully convinces as Lady T but what was the director doing. This is less a film about the Thatcher years and more about dementia. I don’t personally have a problem about this subject being broached, even when the Baroness is still alive but it feels like every single scene has Maggie talking to and referring to Dennis when he is already dead. Once makes the point. Two, labours it. Every time is just kind of mad. Next to see is “The Artist” and maybe leaning to some Hollywood schmaltz like “Sherlock Holmes”. Then “War Horse”, “The Girl With the Dragoon Tattoo”…wow, a busy week ahead!
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